Walk around Seoul for a few days and you’ll bump into Korean politics without even trying. On a Saturday afternoon, Sejong-daero in Gwanghwamun might be closed off end to end, an exit at City Hall Station shut, and a loudspeaker blaring loud enough to hear from two blocks away. When you don’t know what’s going on, it’s unnerving. Once you do, it’s just a matter of thinking “ah, that’s where it’s all happening today” and walking the other way.

This piece doesn’t take sides. It just lays out which parties exist, who holds the majority right now, what you’ll actually see on the street, and what to do when you do.

The short answer

  • It comes down to two camps — the progressive-liberal Democratic Party of Korea (the ruling party, 161 seats) and the conservative People Power Party (the main opposition, 110 seats). The remaining minor parties hold 29 seats, with 8 independents.
  • The president is Lee Jae-myung (Democratic Party, inaugurated June 2025), and the Democratic Party also holds the National Assembly majority. Yet the mayor of Seoul is the People Power Party's Oh Se-hoon. Central government and Seoul City Hall being run by different parties is the backdrop to much of what happens here.
  • Rallies cluster around Gwanghwamun, City Hall, Yeouido, and Seocho on weekends. They're not dangerous, just extremely crowded. Don't wander over to watch — walk a block around and carry on.

Why is politics so visible in Seoul?

The reason politics stands out so much in Seoul is simple: every political stage sits dead in the middle of downtown — and right on top of the usual tourist routes.

Seoul's political map — all within walking distance

  • Gwanghwamun's Sejong-daero · Seoul Plaza — the default stage for big rallies. Right next to Gyeongbokgung and Deoksugung palaces.
  • The National Assembly Building in Yeouido — the legislature. Same island as the 63 Building and Hangang Park.
  • Yongsan Samgakji — the presidential office, which moved from Cheong Wa Dae in 2022. Steps from Itaewon and Yongsan Station.
  • The courts and prosecutors' office in Seocho-dong — supporters from both sides gather whenever a big trial is on. In the heart of Gangnam.
  • Cheong Wa Dae — opened to the public in 2022 and now a tourist spot. You can walk in without a reservation.

In other words, the most common tourist loop in Seoul — see Gyeongbokgung, cross Gwanghwamun Square, head down toward City Hall — is exactly where the rallies happen. No point trying to dodge it; just know that’s how the city is laid out.


What parties are there?

Democratic Party of Korea — the ruling party

The Democratic Party of Korea (usually shortened to the Democratic Party) holds both the presidency and the National Assembly majority. It defines itself as progressive-liberal and has long campaigned on expanding welfare and reforming the chaebol conglomerates and the prosecution. Its support base is traditionally the Honam region (Gwangju, South and North Jeolla) and the Seoul metro area, along with relatively younger voters.

When Lee Jae-myung won the snap presidential election in June 2025, the party moved from opposition to government, and it now holds 161 of 300 seats — a majority on its own. At the party convention in August 2026, former prime minister Kim Min-seok was elected leader.

People Power Party — the main opposition

The People Power Party (PPP) is the conservative main opposition, with 110 seats. It has long stood for a market-driven economy, a stronger U.S.–South Korea alliance, and a hard line on North Korea. Its base is the Yeongnam region (Daegu, North Gyeongsang, Busan, South Gyeongsang) and older voters.

It lost power in the December 2024 martial law crisis and the impeachment that followed, and was beaten badly in the June 2026 local elections — but it held on to the Seoul mayorship (Oh Se-hoon) and Daegu, North Gyeongsang, and South Gyeongsang. If you’re visiting Seoul, this part actually matters — because Seoul City Hall’s policies and the central government’s often pull in different directions.

The other parties

Korea’s National Assembly is effectively a two-party system, but the smaller parties often end up holding the casting vote.

🏛️ Seats in the 22nd National Assembly by party (300 total, as of September 2026)

PartySeatsLeaning · notes
Democratic Party of Korea161Ruling party. Progressive-liberal
People Power Party110Main opposition. Conservative
Rebuilding Korea Party12Founded 2024. Progressive, built around prosecution reform
Progressive Party4Left-wing party rooted in labor and farmers
New Reform Party3Founded 2024. Centrist, pragmatic, younger base
Basic Income Party1Single-issue party pushing universal basic income
Social Democratic Party1Social-democratic
Independents8Includes Assembly Speaker Cho Jung-sik

One thing worth knowing up front: Korean parties change their names a lot. Mergers, splits, and rebrandings happen so often that a party name from a ten-year-old article is frequently not the name you’ll hear today. You’ll make sense of things faster if you read parties as “Democratic-leaning or conservative-leaning” rather than by name.


What’s happened over the past few years?

Most of what you see on the streets now is a continuation of a thread that began in December 2024.

161/300
Democratic Party seats in the National Assembly — a majority on its own
12:4
2026 local elections, metropolitan mayors & governors (Democratic : PPP)
21%
say they trust the National Assembly — below the OECD average

That last number is the important one. Only 21% of Koreans say they trust the National Assembly. It’s part of why so many people take to the streets — and also why most Koreans treat rallies as everyday background noise.


You run into a rally — what now?

Straight to the point: Korean rallies are, by and large, not dangerous. Most are legal gatherings registered in advance, and the police focus on keeping groups apart and managing traffic rather than cracking down. Tourists are essentially never targeted; if anything, participants are more likely to hand a passing foreigner a flyer or step aside with a smile to let you through.

The real issue isn’t danger — it’s the crowding.

When you hit a rally — five field tips

  • Don't get close. Push into the crowd to have a look and it'll take you 20 minutes to get back out. The loudspeakers are loud enough to make conversation impossible.
  • Don't trust your map app's walking route. Sidewalks and crosswalks are often blocked off entirely. Walking a block around or switching to the subway is much faster.
  • Subway over bus. A city bus caught in a big detour can eat up 20 to 40 minutes of your day. The subway just closes a few exits — the trains themselves run fine.
  • Be careful with photos and video. Zoom in on a specific participant and you might get challenged. Shooting from a distance as part of the scene is fine.
  • Don't chant along or take a flag. As the next section explains, there's a legal gray area here.

Why do they face off? — counter-rallies

This is the most striking feature of Korean protest culture. When one side calls a rally, the opposing camp registers a counter-rally on the same day, in the same area. So it’s common to hear completely opposite slogans ringing out from opposite ends of Sejong-daero at the same time.

Take Liberation Day (August 15) in 2026 — one day in central Seoul lays the whole structure bare. At 11 a.m., a conservative group rallied in front of the Dongwha Duty Free in Gwanghwamun; at 1 p.m., another conservative party held a rally and march in the same spot. At the same time, a progressive civic gathering marched down Yulgok-ro in Jongno toward Seoul Plaza, and at 2 p.m. the Korean Confederation of Trade Unions (KCTU) held its national workers’ rally, marching from the Anguk-dong intersection to the Gwanghwamun Woldae (the stone platform in front of the gate). Police fielded 218 traffic officers that day alone just to reroute vehicles.

What actually happens in these standoffs: raised voices and arguments, cursing, dueling loudspeaker volumes, shoving against police lines — all of this is common to witness. Large-scale bloodshed, on the other hand, is rare. That's because police use bus barricades (walls of police buses lined up) and human cordons to keep the two camps from ever meeting. For a spectator, the dangerous moment is usually not the "clash" but the "crush." The only thing you really need to worry about is not getting trapped in the crowd.

Foreigners shouldn’t join in — and that’s the law

Watching as you pass by, or taking photos, is no problem at all. Joining in, though, is a different story.

Immigration Control Act, Article 17

  • Paragraph 2 — "No foreigner staying in the Republic of Korea shall engage in political activities, except as provided by this Act or other statutes."
  • Paragraph 3 — The Minister of Justice may issue a written order to a foreigner who has engaged in political activities to suspend such activities, or take other necessary measures.

The scope of “political activities” leaves room for interpretation, and there are almost no known cases of tourists actually being sanctioned. Still, it’s clearly a provision that could affect your residency status. Holding a flag, chanting slogans, or joining the ranks — best not to. Just stay an observer.

How to check ahead

  • Seoul TOPIS, the city's traffic information system (topis.seoul.go.kr) — shows the day's road closures on a map, including ones caused by rallies.
  • Your embassy's security notices — on days when big rallies are expected, the U.S. and Australian embassies and others post advance alerts, sometimes with location and expected turnout.
  • If you've booked a place near Gwanghwamun or City Hall on a weekend, taxis may not be able to get in around check-in and check-out time. If you plan to haul luggage, do it in the morning.

Want to go a little deeper? — places to visit

If the politics caught your interest, Seoul has a few places where you can see the backdrop firsthand.

🏛️
Cheong Wa Dae
The presidential residence from 1948 to 2022, now open to anyone. Just behind Gyeongbokgung.
🕯️
Democracy Movement Memorial
The former Namyeong-dong anti-communist investigation office. Room 509, where Park Jong-chul died in 1987, is preserved exactly as it was. Free.
🗳️
National Assembly Building (Yeouido)
With advance booking, you can tour the main chamber. In spring it's even better known for the cherry-blossom road along Yunjungno behind it.
🚩
Seodaemun Prison History Hall
A prison that held independence activists under Japanese colonial rule, and later pro-democracy activists. Five minutes on foot from Dongnimmun Station.

One last thing

For Koreans, politics runs hot. You might hear voices rise at the next table in a restaurant. Even so, there’s really only one line a traveler needs to hold — if someone asks your opinion, smile and move on, and stay an observer on the street. Do that, and Seoul’s politics stops being something to worry about and becomes part of what helps you understand the city a little better.

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